I use 10W40 and change my oil every 3000 miles. If you want to change your oil filter I have a list of brand name filters and numbers that I'm going to e-mail to Jarel for the Maintenance Section. If you do choose one of the brand name filters, check with your local outlet to see if they have it in stock. They are cheaper than the local Kawasaki shop, but when I called around, most places didn't have them in stock, but they were more than willing to order them for me. Since they're smaller filters, it's mostly import auto outlets that stock or will order them. Wix is one of the filter companies that make it and NAPA should have a cross reference # also.

 

Hi Martin,

I changed my oil at 500 miles and went with kawasaki 20W50. I noticed it took a little longer for the transmission to to warm up. What I mean is it doesn't shift as smooth for the first few miles.

I think I'll try 10W40 next time. I wonder what comes from the factory 10W40 or 20W50?

Andy 2001 ZR-7S

 

I would guess the dealer would put in either a 30 or a 40 weight when they set them up. It may depend on the climate, but I'm sure they have some guidelines to follow. I found 10W40 to be a good all around oil. It works for me. There was alot of discussion on this a while back and there were more than a few different views.

 

20w-50

I've used 20W-50 standard motorcycle oil in my zr-7. No complaints, I prefer the heavier oil for an air cooled engine.

 

Did my own oil change about a month ago at 3200 miles. I switched to full synthetic oil. Boy, what a difference it made! I used Silkolene Superbike Pro-4 20w-50. It's the same stuff recommended for Ducati's. My Local Kawa dealer recommended it. I was worried about using synth so early in the life of the bike. But the mechanic showed me his ZX-7R. He put in synthetic after the first oil change (600 miles) and now has over 20k on the clock with out any problems. The first thing I noticed was how quiet the engine seemed after the change. The clutch was much smoother, not that it was bad before. I got a great deal on the oil, $12 for a gallon. I priced it on-line and after shipping, I got a better deal from my dealer. The other thing I noticed, was after about 1200 miles, I hadn't cooked off any oil. Before, using the KawChem 10w-40, I cooked off about 2-pints after some hard riding. Could be just the weight of the oil, but I really think that the synthetic is much better. IMHO :angel:

Pete

 

What is it again that is possibly un-safe with the use of full synthetic ? Is it just, don't use it too early, clutch problems ? I have 10000 on the clock now. I was going to change oil for the Winter. I'll start it once a month. I'll ride it once or twice till spring. Then, soon after, I'll change it again, April or May. Should I then use full synthetic ? I used semi-synthetic on second change. Found it just....expensive. Now I use Yamalube, 1040. At 10250, or there about, it'll be the fifth oil/filter change . I don't want to leave dirty oil in there over Winter. Then start er up with that dirty oil.

What do you folks think of magnetic drain plugs ? And , what about the synthetic question, the weight question ? This stuff is important, no ? Remember the Castrol ad ? Motor oil is the life blood of your engine.

 

I run Quaker State 15W40 (some HD Syn Blend for tow vehicles) in the summer. Take it down to 10W40 in the cooler months. Seems to work fine for me.

 

Motul 20W-50 mineral oil

I was recommended a 20W-50 mineral oil for the ZR7-S. Dealer said the typically 20W-50 works better in an air cooled engine than 10W-40 because of wider tolerances than in a water cooled mill. Delaer also said that the synthetic stuff makes a difference only in high-power engines where pressures and revvs are waaay higher than in the old ZR mill. So, better go with the cheaper stuff. The result? Engine runs like a dream, seems quieter and less rattly. You need to be firm with your shifing foot before the engine is fully warmed up though.

I chose Motul, a french brand that is supposedly good. I paid 200 Swedish crowns, roughly 20 U.S. dollars, for 4 liters (just over a a U.S. gallon). Synthetic would have cost twice that.

 

Good Grief! That's some expensive dino-oil! I paid $12 US for 1-gallon of Silkolene Pro-4 20w-50 Full Synthetic. I keep forgetting how expensive oil and petrol are across the pond. In my opinion, use whatever oil works for you. Of course that does mean using a motorcycle oil, not something made for cars or trucks.

Ride Safe!

Pete

 

Re: Motul 20W-50 mineral oil

I chose Motul, a french brand that is supposedly good. I paid 200 Swedish crowns, roughly 20 U.S. dollars, for 4 liters (just over a a U.S. gallon). Synthetic would have cost twice that.

I use Motul 5100 semi synthetic and it's OK for my bike.
It costs around 20$ for 4 lt in Greece. Of course it will use up a little if pushed hard.
Which Motul you got?

Aris

 

Motul oil

Aris,

I bought the Motul 3000 4T 20W-50. How do you find the semi-synthetic you use?

 

I'm using Motul 5100 15w-50 and don't have any problems with it.
I pay $40 (Australian) for 4 Litres. I haven't had to add any oil between changes but I don't give the bike a hard time.

 

what oil filter should i get for the 2003 kawasaki zr7s? where can i get it? Autozone?

 

Check your other thread

 

im using Castrol power 1 racing 10w 40 full synthetic

 

Anyone have any ideas concerning 'motorcycle oil'?
I ask this because the 4 stroke motorcycle oil is so much more expensive than the regular oil. I'm told that bc most bikes have wet clutches we need the special motorcycle oil to prevent clutch slippage but the actual oil container says nothing about this and I've asked a many places about the difference betweeen motorcylce oil and regular engine oil and have never got any real proof about the difference. I'd imagine that the actual oil jug would state something on the back . there is alot of info about the oil on the container but says nothing about it's specifics.
So short question is....do you think the 'motorcyclye 4 stroke oil' is different from standard engine oil?

 

I usually look for JASO MA designation at the back of the oil container. If it has that, it's a go for me.

JASO Oil Specifications - oilspecifications.org

 

just stick to oils designed for bikes
because the oil has to go though the gearbox as well it really takes it toll on the oil.
cars run 2 oils 1 for the gearbox and 1 for the engine
we run 1 oil for both so there not the same

 

Yes, this stuff I know but like I said, everytime I ask about oils at shops, I get very goofball type answers that make me as a consumer wonder.....read this below....
Motorcycle Oils vs. Automotive Oils

 

I use on my Z750 Torco t4r semi synthetic 10w40 every 2500 miles and in summer 15w50