636 Swap complete...my experience

[timmer357]

Today I did the 636 swap with both the front forks and rear shock. I wanted to post my experiences to share what worked for me and what didn't, hoping the next person that tries may have a little easier run at it. That is not to make it seem like it is hard because it isn't (easy to say now that it is done).

First, I collected all the parts necessary for the swap. All of these specific parts worked well and were essentially direct bolt on:

1. '03-'04 Zx636 forks (off ebay)
2. '03-'04 Zx636 shock (off ebay, same seller)
3. '03-'04 Zx636 front brake calipers (off ebay)
4. '03-'04 Zx636 front axle (off ebay, same seller as #3)
5. '00-'02 Zx600 wheel spacers; Kawi part #92152-1251 (local Kawi dealer)
6. 10mm radial brake spacers (www.motospecialties.com)
7. 10mm x 1.25 pitch x 70mm bolts for calipers (from http://www.mmsacc-stainless.com/metr...ric_allen.html)
8. Spiegler smoke stainless brake lines w/blue fittings & banjo bolts; specifically made for joining Z1000 master cylinder to '03-'04 Zx636 calipers; +2 inches length (from www.spieglerusa.com)
9. Galpher brake pads (from local Cycle Gear, just know you need two packages worth as there are four pads per caliper)

Next I bought some tools for the project, but they will hopefully get used for years to come:

1. Quality Torque wrench with both high and low Newton Meter capabilities
2. Motrax axle tool
3. Pitbull front triple stand
4. Metric hex key set (most of the parts that need torque followed are hex keys)


I started by replacing the rear shock from the Z with that of the 636. This was a very easy swap...once I figured out that we should jack up the engine to release some of the tension on the shock. I used a small jack from my truck and it worked like a charm. Simply remove the two bolts, pull the shock out (I went out the bottom), and replace with 636 shock. I followed torque specifications on the bolts, well, on the entire project for that matter. Torque the two bolts holding the shock in place to 34 Newton meters (N-m). If you have to unbolt the dogbones, replace at 59 N-m.

Next I started the front. Removed the front fairing, broke most of the stock bolts loose while the bike was still on the ground, and then put in on the front & rear stands. I started by removing the front fender and then the stock braking system (made sure to have wet rags on hand to clean up any stray brake fluid). Next, I removed the front axle with the listed Motrax tool. Took the front wheel/spacers/axle out and then removed the stock forks.

I placed the new forks in the tubes and used a small screwdriver device to ensure equally height in the triples. Essentially, we made sure they were exactly the same height by placing the end of the screwdriver in a specified location on both sides and raising the forks until it hit a plastic stopper on the handle. We double, triple, and quadruple checked the forks to ensure equal spacing. 25 1/2mm up is what I went with but that doesn't mean it is right. Torque down per specs; 13 Newton meters (N-m) for upper bolts and 30 N-m for lower.

Installed front axle ('00-'02 Zx600) and wheels spacers (see part number above), torque to specs (127 N-m axle for Z, but went with it on 636 parts; 25 N-m for axle bolts). Bolted on front calipers (25 N-m torque per Z standards) with listed spacers and bolts (after replacing pads). Finally, attached the brake lines (again, 25 N-m torque. If you order from Spiegler like I did, I suggest doing +3 inches or +4 instead of the 2 I did (that is length added to their normal Z1000 kit). They are a little on the short side but work fine.

This project is so much easier with a buddy or two to help. The entire project took about 8 hours and that included store trips, food, and installing my Motovation frame/case sliders. I had planned on taking pics as I progressed but the battery was dead and most people are more capable of this project than I. Also, there is a little water still on my bike in the pics in case anyone notices a weird pattern. I washed it at the end to ensure no brake fluid all over...

Check http://zed1000.free.fr/manuel/manuel.pdf for any help you may need. I used torque specs from the Z1000 even on the 636 parts. My local Kawi dealer said it was probably a safe route to take without breaking out their manual. Don't use my torque specs on the 636 parts unless you believe they are about right or you have no other info to go off of. The internet is your friend and likely has an online guide like the one I linked to.

*EDIT* I added the torque specs to make this a more comprehensive guide of my experience.

[timmer357]

Last one...the overview

[tokintmash]

Could you take a look at here
Got some questions, you may have an answer for

[ropehead]

iv'e just got hold of a full zx6r 2005 front end with caliper spindle and spacers, will i be needing any other parts mainly spacers and such?

cheers guys

[racerraul]

Vewy, vewy, nice! Love the blue!
Nice recap BTW... this should be an EZ find with a little searching, although for the life of me I can't figure out why it isn't stickied, or put on an FAQ like the SVRider Forums do...

[GOODRODE]

Great write up and nice look'n pics

[deecatt]

Originally Posted by ropehead

iv'e just got hold of a full zx6r 2005 front end with caliper spindle and spacers, will i be needing any other parts mainly spacers and such?

cheers guys

Ropehead if you have the 05 fork's C1 mod you will need different mudguard (fender) if you haven't already got one the z1000 one doesn't fit
the c models, it will fit the b models fork's

[timmer357]

Ropehead, from what I have read, you will need to get a new front fender but can eliminate the need for caliper spacers. I believe the 05-06 had larger rotors and therefore is a straight forward swap. You may then be able to get away with standard caliper bolt and not have to order some from across the nation like I did. I spent more on the spacers than needed 'cause I ordered the black ones via Crimson Cloak. There are just a lot nicer looking and I didn't have to drive all over town trying to find someone to machine me a set (thanks for the info Crimson). I can't tell you the other differences as I obviously went with the 03-04 swap. Just start watching ebay and you'll get a smokin' deal on the whole front end.

Anyone have any luck selling the Z suspension after the swap?

[mezzo]

Originally Posted by timmer357

Last one...the overview

Tinner357, you have just answered all my questions about my z1000 front end,i still have a few worries thou,
Did you use your std discs of your z1000 and your z1000 front wheel did you use your std top and bottom yokes

Mezzo

[timmer357]

Any non-stock part that was used is outlined in the original write up...so to answer your question, no.

[mezzo]

I have found a compleat front end of a zx636 2005 model but my z1000 is a 03 do you know by any chance weather it would fit.
and would i use the 636 axel?.and what about the wheel spacers

Mezzo

[Maxz1000]

Timmer357, absolute superb write up, many thanks. I have been searching the various forums and related strings and never found one that is so good.
I do have one query, what is the sag like using the 636 forks? Do the fork springs need to be changed to something slightly stiffer to compensate for the extra weight of the Z1000? Or is it a case that the suspension was too hard for the 636 and works better with a bit more weight? I will have a rear 636 shock arriving early next week, just about to bid for the forks.

[kwakbiker]

One of the best write ups Ive seen, top job as well

[timmer357]

Thanks for the kudos. I can't give any real good advice on sag or other suspension settings. I did my own garage quick settings after a couple "test rides". The forks had the rebound REALLY slowed down so I changed that. The shock was way hard compared to the Z so I changed that as well. I haven't rode the bike much since the swap (maybe a 100 miles) and still need to take it to a suspension wizard to get it set up for my weight/riding style.

[Daveejayuk]

Looks great - the preload setting looked pretty maxed out on the rear shock, which is same one i have on my 750S, i found at that kind of pre load it was not squatting under acceleration and i was losing grip/drive, have slacked it off to show around 15mm of thread now, but havent got to test yet.....